Beaufort

The Savoie is a breathtaking mountain region sandwiched in a corner of France between Switzerland and Italy. It’s the sort of place where winters are long and deep, and animals in the pastures outnumber people in the villages.

Beaufort, an ancient style that was already being eaten when the Romans were here, is one of three great cheeses of the region (the others are Tomme de Savoie and Reblochon). It’s sometimes difficult to find in the United States, and always pricey. It’s worth every bit of effort and expense.

A kissing cousin to Gruyère, Beaufort is big, in taste and the 80-pound wheels it’s pressed in. Its purest version, labeled d’alpage (of the pasture), is made from the milk of Tarentaise cows, which graze at high elevations (above 6,000 feet). This raw-milk cheese is higher in butterfat, and creamier and more robust than either Swiss Gruyère or Comté.

The best milk is produced in August and early September, after the cattle have spent a summer dining on magnificent Alpine flowers and grasses. It is matured for at least four months in humid cellars, and the rind is brine-washed during aging.

PAIRINGS: In its youth, Beaufort has a mildly fruity nose and taste, which deepens with age into a complex mix of nuts, toffee and caramel. It goes well with big, rustic red wines, such as Rhones. It also makes a great component of salad, with lettuce, sweet nuts, and mustard vinaigrette. If you’re feeling flush, use it in fondue or other melted-cheese preparations.

Interested? Here's a source to buy the French stuff. Or, if you're in the mood for a U.S. edition, try this one, made by an American artisan paying homage.