Camembert

A tale about Camembert’s supposed origins...

Around the time of the Revolution, a breakaway priest was on the run from the authorities. A Norman farmer named Marie Harel took him in. While hiding there, the cleric shared cheesemaking secrets he learned at the monastery.

In 1791, it is said, Madame Harel put those lessons to work, and invented Camembert.

It’s a good story, but almost certainly not true. For one thing, there’s plenty of documented writing about cheese of this variety existing much earlier in the 18th century. The legend of Marie Harel, however, did give a 20th century mayor of the town of Vimoutiers an excuse to erect a statue.

Like Brie, Camembert’s reputation has been badly tarnished by myriad poor imitations. Too many of the brands commercially available in the United States are simply mass-produced, industrial versions. They bear little resemblance to authentic, “veritable Camembert de Normandie.”

The good stuff is a raw cow’s milk cheese. The rind will be bright white, and the paste a shade or two more yellow. The full-flavored variety has a woodsy smell, like mushrooms or truffles, with an ever-so-slightly salty taste. It should be just a bit firm but still pliant, like the consistency of pizza dough.

By the way, true Camembert and authentic Brie de Meaux are made by the same recipe and techniques, though they hail from different places. They taste so similar as to be nearly identical stylistically. Both are noble centerpieces for a cheese board, with grapes.

PAIRINGS: Camembert makes a great companion to a vast array of wines. Try it with a full-bodied Cabernet or a spicy Zinfandel, for example, and one range of its flavors will be prominent. But you can also pair it with, say, Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. If you do, you'll notice a different, but equally tasty, dimension of the cheese.

Click here to buy some.