Chevre

Mention chevre, the generic French term for goat cheese, and most Americans immediately think of those ubiquitous logs. In reality, goat’s milk cheeses are produced in hundreds of sizes and shapes, in many countries, and according to a variety of production methods.

Individual varieties--such as the truncated pyramids of Valencay (one of Napoleon’s favorites) or the barrel-shaped Crottin de Chavignol—all have their adherents. That noted, however, virtually all chevres share some basic characteristics, which makes it easier to discuss them as a group.

Artisanal chevre tends to be hand made, and not terribly fancy. (Notable exception: Coach Farms, a big U.S. operation making terrific stuff.) It’s generally young and fresh, though some aging adds complexity to chevre like any other cheese.

In its youngest form, it is bright white, moist, and quite creamy. More ripened offerings are hard, and slightly yellow. But even then, goat cheese is never matured for as long as bigger, harder cow and sheep varieties.

The most distinctive chevres come from the eastern Loire Valley, particularly in and around Berry. Many feature a dark rind, created by a so-called “cindering” process in which the cheese in encased by ash during the maturation period.

PAIRINGS: Goat cheese, as any one who’s dined in an American restaurant in 1980 knows, is a perfect salad component. Because it’s so light, easy-drinking white wines complement far better than most reds. For beer, try a lager like Stella Artois.

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