Reblochon

Some say Reblochon’s name comes from a dialectical word for “thievery.” Judging by its rich taste, it was quite a swindle.

Once upon a time, taxes were levied based on the volume of milk a dairy herd could produce. Legend has it that local farmers’ wives would deceive the tax collector into thinking their cows had gone dry. When the official was safely out of view, the women rushed out to relieve their cows’ udders.

That second milking produced a luxurious milk, high in butterfat and perfectly suited for this creamy, relatively under-aged family-style cheese.

Reblochon is a soft variety, about the consistency of Camembert, but with a stark white color. It feels velvety on your tongue, not runny but with just enough “give” to it. When ripe, the cheese is rather pungent, though in a tantalizing, never offensive, way.

Reblochon comes in thin (one-inch) disks, about five-and-a-half inches wide. The raw-milk cheese is ripened quickly (between 50 and 60 days, the latter being the legal minimum for importation to the United States), via a briny wash of the rind and curing it at high temperatures.

Because much of the Reblochon produced in France falls on the wrong side of the U.S. government's absurd aging rules, it can be difficult to import into the United States, leading to periodic shortages at the cheese shop.

PAIRINGS: The cheese can be quite sweet, and pairs well with fruit, but also bitter vegetables like radishes, or spread on celery. It also balances very nicely against tart apples. Wash it down with a young red wine, such as Beaujolais Nouveau, or an uncomplicated, but somewhat sweet, white. Not surprisingly, Savoie white wines are very neighborly in that regard.

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