Brie de Meaux

Brie didn't become a cliche during the Chardonnay craze of the 1970s and 1980s; it's been overhyped for centuries.

As far back as 1815, the French statesman Talleyrand was promoting it as the King of All Cheese. (It was crowned at a famous dinner of diplomats negotiating the post-Waterloo Treaty of Vienna.)

Today, of course, the world is awash in Brie, most of it totally ordinary. Only two French styles, Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun, maintain traditional standards. The rest are rarely great.

De Meaux and de Melun, on the other hand, are well worth tracking down. Both are lush, soft big cheeses. They boast distinct, yet subtly complex flavors: creamy and nutty at once, with a hint of sweetness, yet also mushroomy.

De Melun is ripened a bit longer than de Meaux, so it tends to be bigger and more complicated. It has a yellow, almost golden paste, and a rustic aroma. De Meaux, on the other hand, is precise and sophisticated. It, not de Melun, is considered the standard.

The cheese can be made from either raw cow’s milk or that which has been pasteurized. The important thing to look for is the A.O.C. sticker (appelation d’origine contrôlée) denoting authenticity.

PAIRINGS: Brie goes great with grapes and fruits, medium-bodied red wines, as well as, sigh, Chardonnay.