Feta

In an age of swirling complexity, simple charms are often comforting.

That may be why so many people love Feta, the sharp, uncomplicated sheep's milk cheese made by the Greeks, Turks, and their Balkan neighbors.

Large slices of the fresh cheese are soaked in brine and sold in slices (feta means "slice" in Greek). Bright white in color, Feta should be dense and crumbly, and deliciously salted, virtually pickled.

While sheep's milk is the traditional base, it occasionally comes in a goat's milk version, or as a blend of the two.

Hint: If it's too salty for your taste, soak it briefly in some milk. Always store it in brine.

PAIRINGS: Feta is great in salads, with tomatoes, olives and other Mediterranean specialties. It's often wrapped in phylo, or breaded and fried. It can be paired with crisp white wines, or light, vaguely sweet beers.