Port Salut

Port Salut was invented by Trappist monks in Brittany during the early 19th century, who originally thought of it as something they would eat, not sell.

But when a visiting cheesemonger from Paris stopped by the monastery of Notre Dame du Port du Salut, he convinced them that cheese's market potential was divine.

Today, most varieties of Port Salut are made industrially, though a few handmade types are available in France.

The cheese always comes cased in a trademark, bright orange rind. Look for the letters S.A.F.R. stamped on it. The acronym stands for Société Anonyme des Fermiers Réunis, the order of monks who originated the style back in the day.

What you discover inside that colorful shell -- particularly the smell -- depends a lot on the length and manner in which the individual variety has been aged.

When young, Port Salut has a mild, even delicate aroma. But with just a bit of age, it can grow deliciously pungent. In any form, however, the taste and texture are always buttery.

PAIRINGS: Since it's not over-the-top robust, Port Salut tends to go well with a wide assortment of medium-bodied wines. Burgundy, in particular, produces a number of good matches, from the region's classic Pinot Noir to Macon-Villages whites.