Toma and Paglia

Think of Toma and Paglia-style cheeses as the Brie and Camembert of Italy. There’s a big difference, though: the Italian varieties are relatively obscure outside of their homeland in Piemonte and Lombardia. So, unlike their French cousins, they haven’t paid the price of global fame.

Neither Paglia nor Toma is a particular type of cheese, like Parmigiano-Reggiano. Rather, the terms refer to a general process of making cheese, not an individual variety.

Paglia-style cheeses are made from slightly pasteurized cow’s milk. Their name derives from the traditional practice of ripening the cheese on beds of hay (paglia is the word for “straw”). The term Toma, loosely translated into a “round,” identifies itself as the product of a region’s milk (i.e. Piemonte), but not that of a specific herd.

The cheeses share many characteristics with each other, as well as good Brie and Camembert. They have a basic grassy yet garlicky smell, which is laced through with other aromas. The most prominent is that of mushrooms or truffles. (Piemonte is the heart of the Italian truffle business. As a result, the funghi in the soil affect the milk in a magnificent way.)

Toma cheeses and Paglie differ primarily in presentation. The former are thick and bulging, while the latter tend to be made flat. Both are yellowy beige on the inside, not too white nor too firm to the touch.

PAIRINGS: They are versatile cheeses to serve. Being full-bodied and full-flavored, they go great with high-season fruit and salami or prosciutto. For wines, try northern Italian reds, especially big Piemontese ones like Barolo or Barbaresco.