Friday, April 27, 2007

Old Chatham Sheepherding Camembert

In praise of sheep: They're cute. They're soft. When you see a bunch of them in a field somewhere, they seem like the most mellow creatures on earth. You can't help but scream "BAAAAAA!" Generally, they look up at you with a bemused reaction.

More to the point, sheep produce a terrific milk for making cheese. It's underrated, but some of the world's great styles are made from sheep's milk. Roquefort, for one. So is Feta, usually. And a whole range of cheeses from the Basque region.

So why do cows get all the glory? Beats me.

In the Hudson Valley, a few hours north of New York City, the Old Chatham Sheepherding Company is trying to heighten our appreciation for the noble, if humble, sheep. The company's most famous contribution is its Camembert, which blends sheep's milk from its own herd and a bit of cow's milk from a nearby farm.

The result is a buttery cheese, with a nutty, earthy flavor. The addition of sheep's milk to a traditional cow's milk style actually levels out the taste. Sometimes, Camembert can be too buttery, sweet to the point of unctuous. Not so with the elegant, balanced Chatham, which regularly wins awards at cheese shows and tasting combinations.

What's the secret? None at all. It's the sheep.

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