Valdeón

The Spanish, like all people of culture and breeding, like a bold blue.

In the northern Asturias region, they make the incomparably assertive Cabrales. It is a pungent, earthy cheese whose salty, piquant flavor knocks your socks off and rolls up your pant leg to boot.

In nearby Leon, the locals also like their cheese to have some character. Their contribution is Valdeón, a bold, creamy blue that is ever-so-slightly tamer than its neighbor.

To be sure, Valdeón is no wimp. Its ivory colored paste is full of those signature blue veins, and its complex taste is at once sharp, and salty, and creamy. It's usually made from cow's milk, but in the Spanish style, producers often mix in other milks. Goat and sheep milk make their appearance, depending on the cheesemaker.

Wheels of Valdeón wheels often come wrapped in Sycamore leaves. Besides enhancing its appearance, the leaf-wrap adds yet another subtle flavor undertone to the cheese.

PAIRINGS: Valdeón goes well with Bierzo, a red wine variety from another northern region. It's also at home next to Rioja, particularly the less-musty modern styles of it. On the food side, think grilled red meat.