Saturday, June 2, 2007

Jean Grogne

This triple crème French cheese, made from pasteurized cow's milk, is as lush as lush gets.

It's creamy and rich, but doesn't overwhelm. Instead, it's a subtle, almost delicate, swirl of perfectly blended dairy flavors. It has an ever-so-gentle mushroomy aroma, with an ever-so-slight tangy bitterness to the taste.

Unlike many of France's most appealing cheeses, Jean Grogne is not ancient. It's a 20th century invention by the same master cheesemaker who introduced Pierre Robert.

Think of Jean Grogne as a slightly more refined version of the ubiquitous St. André, in the same style of super-rich, buttery cheeses.

PAIRINGS: Because Jean Grogne is so rich, it stands up well to fuller-bodied red wines. But don't overdo it, lest the wine robs you from appreciating some of the cheese's subtleties. Well-crafted pinot noir is one good choice, or merlot. (Sorry, Sideways fans. You'll just have to choose.)

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