Point Reyes Vintage White Cheddar

With famous siblings, it's sometimes obvious which one is the genius and which is the no-talent wannabe riding the other's coattails to fame. Think John and Jim Belushi.

Sometimes, though, it's not so clear who's who. Think of the squabbling Gallagher brothers from Oasis, or Ray and Dave Davies of the Kinks. It's kind of like that for this cheese from northern California's Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co.

The company's flagship variety, Original Blue, is one of the stars of the micro-cheese movement. It's wildly popular, and widely distributed as a result. But Point Reyes also makes Cheddar cheese, which is harder to find but worth the search.

Vintage White Cheddar is a big, creamy edition of the classic style. It's sharp but not bitingly so. It's not at all crumbly, as some super-aged Cheddars can be, and more sweet than dry. Its milky flavors are prominent at the forefront.

But make no mistake, this cheese is no wimp. In fact, it's a delicious, modern interpretation of an old style everybody knows well. Like all the best Cheddar, it reminds you why you love cheese in the first place.